Winter Pruning Basics: Trees, Shrubs, and Fruit Plants

Dear friend,

By now, the mornings have a crisp edge that can make your breath puff out in little clouds, and there’s a stillness in the woods around here that only winter can bring. I sometimes feel like I’m inside a snow globe—no snow yet, maybe, but the hush is just as enchanting. I’ll tell you, though, the quiet of January doesn’t mean there’s nothing to do. In fact, for those of us who like to keep our gardens looking their best—and who want a healthy harvest next season—it’s prime time for winter pruning.

I used to be a bit nervous about pruning. What if I cut too much, or in the wrong place? Would I damage the tree or miss out on next summer’s blooms? Over the years, though, I’ve come to see pruning as an art mixed with a dash of science—kind of like baking bread. You follow certain rules to get the structure right, but there’s also room for intuition, for standing back and saying, “Hmm, that branch looks crowded,” or “This limb is crossing awkwardly.” And winter is the perfect season because, for deciduous trees and shrubs, the leaves are gone, revealing the skeleton of branches. You can see exactly where everything’s growing—and how it intersects.

Let’s start with fruit trees, since they’re often the main event for folks around here who love homegrown apples, peaches, or plums. My old orchard, if you can call it that, has seen its fair share of mistakes—branches that I neglected to shape when they were young and small, which later grew into a giant tangle. So learn from me: prune your fruit trees when they’re dormant. That’s typically late winter, when the hardest frosts have passed but before the buds break. You want to remove any dead or diseased wood first. That’s always my rule of thumb—if it’s diseased, broken, or crossing in a way that rubs the bark raw, get rid of it. Then, I focus on shaping the tree to allow sunlight to reach the interior. Fruit needs sun, and good air circulation helps keep pests and fungus at bay. You might think of it like giving the tree a good haircut—opening up the crown so it can “breathe.”

For shrubs, it depends a bit on what type you’ve got. Some bloom on old wood—meaning they set their flower buds on last year’s growth—while others bloom on new wood. If your shrub blooms in spring (like many hydrangeas or forsythias), the buds might already be formed on the branches. Pruning them in winter could mean losing some flowers. But for summer-blooming shrubs that set buds on new growth (like certain spireas or rose of Sharon), winter pruning can actually encourage more vigorous flowering later. If you’re not sure which type you have, you might do a little investigating. But don’t stress too much—most plants are more resilient than we give them credit for.

Winter is also an excellent time to prune raspberries, blackberries, and other cane fruits. Summer-bearing varieties usually produce fruit on canes that grew the previous year, so after they’ve fruited, those canes die and can be cut back at any time. For everbearing types, you might cut the canes down to the ground in late winter, allowing fresh canes to sprout for a new crop come summer and fall. There are nuances depending on the exact variety, but the principle is the same: remove the canes that fruited, keep the healthy new canes for next season, and clear out anything that looks weak or damaged. You want a healthy stand of canes, not a crowded thicket that’s prone to disease.

There’s also something almost meditative about pruning in the cold air, with the low winter sun shining through the bare branches. You can see a plant’s form in its purest state and imagine how it’ll look come spring when those buds you leave behind swell with new life. For me, it’s a moment of reflection—on the past growing season, on what thrived, what struggled, and how I can help guide the garden toward a better future. There’s an element of trust, too, that the cuts I make now will lead to a healthier, more abundant growth later.

If you’re new to pruning, you might wonder how to choose which branch goes and which stays. One tip that’s helped me is to look for a branch’s outward-facing bud. If I want a branch to grow outward, away from the center of the plant, I prune just above that outward-facing bud. The new growth will follow that direction. Also, I like to cut at a slight angle so water doesn’t collect on the cut surface. That helps prevent rot and disease. Keep your tools sharp and clean, because a ragged or dirty cut can invite problems. I wipe my pruners down with rubbing alcohol if I’m removing diseased wood, so I don’t pass anything nasty to the next plant.

When it comes to larger limbs on bigger trees, I admit I sometimes call in a professional if it’s beyond my comfort zone. Climbing high or sawing off heavy branches can be dangerous business, and it’s better to be safe than sorry. But for most garden shrubs, small fruit trees, and the like, a good set of hand pruners and a pruning saw can tackle the job.

I’ve heard some folks worry that pruning in winter might expose plants to cold damage. Generally, if you wait until the depth of the harshest cold is over (think late January or February in our region), you’ll be fine. Plus, the plant’s natural dormancy means it’s not sending out new, tender growth that could be harmed by frost. Just be mindful of the weather forecast—if a severe freeze is on the horizon, it might be wise to wait until it passes.

Winter pruning doesn’t just have practical benefits—it can also be a wonderful way to connect with nature’s quieter side. The garden is so still, you can almost hear the sound of your own breathing. Without the distractions of lush foliage and buzzing insects, you notice the little things—lichen on a branch, a hidden bird’s nest revealed by bare limbs, the texture of the bark in the pale winter sun. It’s a reminder that the garden doesn’t truly sleep; it just rests, and that rest is vital for the renewal to come. By engaging in a bit of pruning, you become part of that cycle, helping to shape and nurture the life that will soon burst forth.

After you’ve tidied up your trees and shrubs, it’s a good idea to clean up any fallen debris. Leaves, twigs, or branches that might harbor disease or pests should be disposed of or composted if they’re disease-free. An extra layer of mulch around the base of your pruned plants can help protect them as winter wears on. And then, I’d say, reward yourself for a job well done. A mug of hot cocoa or tea goes a long way toward warming cold fingers, and there’s a certain satisfaction in knowing you’ve helped ensure a healthier, more productive garden in the seasons ahead.

So, here’s to enjoying the peace of winter while also preparing for the growth of spring. May your pruning be guided by both know-how and intuition, and may your plants reward you with abundant blooms, fruits, and foliage in return. If you find a moment, let me know how your winter chores are going. I’m always curious to hear about other gardens—what folks are growing, where they’re finding success, and even the stumbles along the way. After all, we’re all learning together, in tune with these ancient hills.

Yours in the quiet season,
Logan